On Jun 29, 6:30*pm, "James Nipper" <jamesnos...@jamesnipper.com>
wrote:
> I have a vacation property in the mountains, of about six acres, *two acres
> of which are cleared and developed. *I have areas away from the house area
> in which I need water access for watering plants, flowers, etc. *Ideally, I
> would love to have about three faucets in areas that are up to about 400
> feet away from the house.
>
> I can purchase 500 to 600 feet of hoses, and with the use of *"T's" *add
> several branches *(hoses) to allow me to water in several selected areas.
> But, if I use high quality hoses, this would be pretty expensive, and it all
> seems so *"temporary."
>
> I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
> 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the
> current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? *(The main
> line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). * *WhateverI use,
> I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could
> get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something.
>
> Any ideas of what I should look for, *or use ? *Any general ideas of how to
> accomplish what I am trying to do ?

Why not set up a system for gravity flow irrigation, like the farmers
that grow rice have? All you need is a laser level and some sheet
plastic for ditch liners.
Or if you simply prefer to spend money, have a small well drilled at
the site needing the water. Then a couple of 100' hoses will serve any
part of the acreage.

Joe

On Jul 2, 7:14*am, "Steve B" <pittmanpir...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of about
> > 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the name of the
> > current most common), and then run my hose branches from that ? (The main
> > line would have to lay on the ground, through the woods). Whatever I use,
> > I need to be able to drain the line during winters, but I suppose I could
> > get fittings for this equipped with a drain screw or valve or something..
>
> Investigate underground piping, and associated valves. *There is one that
> opens a valve in the ground below freezing level, and when the water is
> turned off, drains the water in the stand pipe to keep it from freezing. *No
> need to totally drain the lines if you put them in deep enough. *Not sure of
> their name, but I have seen lots of them in freezing country. *They arered,
> and have a crooked handle top.
>
> Steve

That would be one hell of a project, running pipe below the frost line
through mostly wooded areas. Around here, even if it's just open
space, poly pipe is just pulled to bury it, almost never buried 3 ft
deep, for obvious reasons. You just blow it out with a compressor
at the end of the season. That's what is done with almost all the
lawn irrigation systems. With some small percentage the pitch
allows for self-draining.

Steve B wrote:
>> I am wondering if it would be more economical to run a main line of
>> about 500 feet, using some sort of plastic pipe (cannot remember the
>> name of the current most common), and then run my hose branches from
>> that ? (The main line would have to lay on the ground, through the
>> woods). Whatever I use, I need to be able to drain the line during
>> winters, but I suppose I could get fittings for this equipped with a
>> drain screw or valve or something.
>
> Investigate underground piping, and associated valves. There is one
> that opens a valve in the ground below freezing level, and when the
> water is turned off, drains the water in the stand pipe to keep it
> from freezing. No need to totally drain the lines if you put them in
> deep enough. Not sure of their name, but I have seen lots of them in
> freezing country. They are red, and have a crooked handle top.
>

Frost proof "yard hydrants" work as you describe. There are also spprinkler
drain valve that open when the pressure drops after the water supply is turned
off to allow the properly installed pipes to drain before winter. They are
installed at the low spot (or spots) of each zone.