I want to replace some of my rads but am confused about the measurements.
The units I have are quite small and old. The one in my hallway for example
is 600mm wide across the actual body, but 700mm across from the extremity of
each tap/joint/whatever you call it just before where it meets the
T-junction for the house pipes.

Looking on Screwfix, the widths available are 300mm, 500mm and 600mm. It
also seems like those radiators are the same width body as the place where
the pipe would join, unless there's something you screw in that makes up the
distance ..?

I'm confused - what should I be measuring? Also, does anyone have a good
recommendation for a web-guide to replacing rads? I'm going to get help
from a mate putting a new one in where the pipes need cutting, but was
hoping to do straightforward direct replacement myself before going as far
as draining the system.




a

al wrote:
> I want to replace some of my rads but am confused about the
measurements.
> The units I have are quite small and old. The one in my hallway for
example
> is 600mm wide across the actual body, but 700mm across from the
extremity of
> each tap/joint/whatever you call it just before where it meets the
> T-junction for the house pipes.
>
> Looking on Screwfix, the widths available are 300mm, 500mm and 600mm.
It
> also seems like those radiators are the same width body as the place
where
> the pipe would join, unless there's something you screw in that makes
up the
> distance ..?
>
The bits that screw in the radiator are part of the valve rather than
being part of the rad so the width you want in your case is 600. When
you put new valves on really make sure they've sealed properly!


> I'm confused - what should I be measuring? Also, does anyone have a
good
> recommendation for a web-guide to replacing rads? I'm going to get
help
> from a mate putting a new one in where the pipes need cutting, but
was
> hoping to do straightforward direct replacement myself before going
as far
> as draining the system.

Close off the valve at each end, drain the rad in whatever way,
disconnect the valve from the rad at the obvious joint, carefully
remove rad. Now either remove the other part of the rad valve from the
old rad or get a new one and put it in the new rad. Refitting is the
reverse of removal etc.

<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed) oups.com...
> The bits that screw in the radiator are part of the valve rather than
> being part of the rad so the width you want in your case is 600. When
> you put new valves on really make sure they've sealed properly!
>

I took out the radiator today. The only thing "in" the radiator that looks
like I can remove it is about 1cm worth of pipe going into the side of if
(with the locknut around it). Looks like it would probably only extend into
the radiator about another 1-2cm, which is a pretty small amount. Makes me
think a 600mm new one would be too narrow ... however there doesn't appear
to be a 700mm or 650mm standard size.

I've uploaded a couple of (bad!) pics below:

http://www.alanirl.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/hall1.JPG
http://www.alanirl.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/hall3.JPG

Sorry about the exposure ... a lot of bright white surfaces taken with a
flash on a cheap camera! The conical parts going into the main radiator
body are fixed parts of it, not removable. Will a 600mm rad really fit with
just those little other bits in it?





a

On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 01:27:47 GMT, "al" <{ask_me}@blueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:
however there doesn't appear
>to be a 700mm or 650mm standard size.
>
>I've uploaded a couple of (bad!) pics below:
>
>http://www.alanirl.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/hall1.JPG
>http://www.alanirl.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/hall3.JPG
>
>Sorry about the exposure ... a lot of bright white surfaces taken with a
>flash on a cheap camera! The conical parts going into the main radiator
>body are fixed parts of it, not removable. Will a 600mm rad really fit with
>just those little other bits in it?
>

if the pipes wont flex enough to fit you can use extenders like:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...17552&ts=31399


I'd replace the valves aswell, it looks like the old ones have been
painted over some.

"basil" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> if the pipes wont flex enough to fit you can use extenders like:
> http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...17552&ts=31399
>
>
> I'd replace the valves aswell, it looks like the old ones have been
> painted over some.

Are those extenders horizontal pieces that fit directly into the radiator at
one end and the screw-fit face of the vertical heating pipe at the other
(sorry about the nomenclature, no idea what to call these bits!)?

The valves (and pipes) are quite nasty. However I'd have to drain the
system to do that wouldn't I? Think I'll just sand down and re-paint.




a

On Fri, 25 Mar 2005 12:01:00 GMT, "al" <{ask_me}@blueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:

>
>Are those extenders horizontal pieces that fit directly into the radiator at
>one end and the screw-fit face of the vertical heating pipe at the other
>(sorry about the nomenclature, no idea what to call these bits!)?

The ones from Wickes are! The nut on the valve (I think its called 3/4
inch BSP ) which holds the current tail is passed over the new tail
which is then screwed directly to the radiator with some ptfe tape on
the thread. You then screw the nut back to the valve and thats it.
Looking at your pictures I think you probably have the right size nuts
on your valves.

Looking at the screwfix ones I cant make out how they attach.

the one at the bottom of this page looks like the Wickes ones I have;
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...ves/d20/sd2762

>
>The valves (and pipes) are quite nasty. However I'd have to drain the
>system to do that wouldn't I? Think I'll just sand down and re-paint.
>

I agree...

"basil" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> Looking at the screwfix ones I cant make out how they attach.
>
> the one at the bottom of this page looks like the Wickes ones I have;
> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...ves/d20/sd2762
>

Speaking of which, I want to get Thermostatic Valves for the upstairs
bedrooms, as they get hot a lot quicker than the ambient temperature
downstairs where the main thermostat is. Any recommendations on good,
reliable makes? I've heard a few stories about some of them getting stuck
on/off and doing buggar all after a while ...




a

On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 23:27:04 GMT, "al" <{ask_me}@blueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:


>Speaking of which, I want to get Thermostatic Valves for the upstairs
>bedrooms, as they get hot a lot quicker than the ambient temperature
>downstairs where the main thermostat is. Any recommendations on good,
>reliable makes? I've heard a few stories about some of them getting stuck
>on/off and doing buggar all after a while ...

I've heard they last 10 years or so. I replaced the old ones here with
this tpe:
http://www.discountedheating.co.uk/s...RV_4_1251.html
they work, and no noise like with some.

Of course it means a drain down and you may have to replace the old
olive. I think very old valves have an imperial thread even. While
your doing this you could re-plumb the new rad so you dont need
extenders.

Basil

"basil" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news(E-Mail Removed)...
> I've heard they last 10 years or so. I replaced the old ones here with
> this tpe:
> http://www.discountedheating.co.uk/s...RV_4_1251.html
> they work, and no noise like with some.
>
> Of course it means a drain down and you may have to replace the old
> olive. I think very old valves have an imperial thread even. While
> your doing this you could re-plumb the new rad so you dont need
> extenders.

Unfortunately, the original rad in question wasn't one of the ones I was
thinking of putting a TRV on! Those ones you've pointed out sure do look
nice, but cost a bit! Most of the ones I've seen on Screwfix, etc. seem to
be in the £5-10 range. Is the extra money for style or function?




a

"Andy Hall" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> I've always used Invensys/Drayton TRV4s and had good results. In
> general, I think that you could expect good behaviour from any of the
> branded products like Honeywell or Pegler.
>
> It's generally reckoned that the heads have a life of about 7 years.
> I've never had less than about 12 from a TRV4 so am pretty happy with
> them.
>
> It is important in any case to have a clean system, so while you are
> doing replacements, it is worth giving the system a thorough flushing
> and filling with corrosion inhibitor.
>

And when they fail ...?




a