The pilot light on my gas fired boiler went out I re lit it but now
when I turn the stat on the boiler up I can't get the thing to fire
up. I have turned the room stat right up and the pump works OK and
when the pump is on there is a power light on at the spur
The programmer is set to constant The pilot light stays on OK.
One thing all this seemed to happen after I managed to drill thro the
main 30 amp feed to the electric cooker whilst installing a new cooker
hood ..... oops nice one ! Don't know whether or not this had anything
to do with it ? Same circuit etc. Fixed that tho + replaced fuse wire
etc.

Pretty desperate now to get some heat urgently so any help would be
most appreciated

Cheers

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 16:17:31 +0000, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:

>The pilot light on my gas fired boiler went out I re lit it but now
>when I turn the stat on the boiler up I can't get the thing to fire
>up. I have turned the room stat right up and the pump works OK and
>when the pump is on there is a power light on at the spur
>The programmer is set to constant The pilot light stays on OK.
>One thing all this seemed to happen after I managed to drill thro the
>main 30 amp feed to the electric cooker whilst installing a new cooker
>hood ..... oops nice one ! Don't know whether or not this had anything
>to do with it ? Same circuit etc. Fixed that tho + replaced fuse wire
>etc.
>
>Pretty desperate now to get some heat urgently so any help would be
>most appreciated
>
>Cheers


Mentioning the make and model of the boiler wouldn't hurt... :-)

How is the boiler connected to the cooker circuit? Normally the
cooker should be on a dedicated circuit with perhaps a 13A outlet at
the switch panel. You shouldn't have a spur from that to a boiler
outlet......

Probably not the immediate cause of your problems but this should be
corrected if wired in that way.


..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 16:53:16 +0000, Andy Hall <(E-Mail Removed)>
wrote:

>On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 16:17:31 +0000, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>
>>The pilot light on my gas fired boiler went out I re lit it but now
>>when I turn the stat on the boiler up I can't get the thing to fire
>>up. I have turned the room stat right up and the pump works OK and
>>when the pump is on there is a power light on at the spur
>>The programmer is set to constant The pilot light stays on OK.
>>One thing all this seemed to happen after I managed to drill thro the
>>main 30 amp feed to the electric cooker whilst installing a new cooker
>>hood ..... oops nice one ! Don't know whether or not this had anything
>>to do with it ? Same circuit etc. Fixed that tho + replaced fuse wire
>>etc.
>>
>>Pretty desperate now to get some heat urgently so any help would be
>>most appreciated
>>
>>Cheers
>
>
>Mentioning the make and model of the boiler wouldn't hurt... :-)
>
>How is the boiler connected to the cooker circuit? Normally the
>cooker should be on a dedicated circuit with perhaps a 13A outlet at
>the switch panel. You shouldn't have a spur from that to a boiler
>outlet......
>
>Probably not the immediate cause of your problems but this should be
>corrected if wired in that way.
>
>
>.andy
>
>To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Sorry its an old Glow Worm ( Space Saver ) but still 'glowing'
strong !
I guess that it was just a coincidence that the boiler went down at
the same time as I blew the cooker fuse out. ( Too traumatic for the
old boy )
I did think that the cooker should be on a dedicated circuit and this
appears to be so.
I've never had a free standing cooker here - just wired the seperate
oven (gas hob ) to switch panel. Surprised / shocked me that cable
was just under plaster with a thin strip of plastic over ... no real
protective sheathing ( metal ) I guess regs. are different now ?

Anyway good news I managed to get it to fire up. Don't really know
what I did but could be some sort of safety button on boiler stat .
I took knob off an pushed in .......
The previous owner did not leave a manual or anything so its been hit
+ miss etc. I must try and get hold of some documentation to see how
everything works - hate not knowing.

Cheers

In uk.d-i-y, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>
> I've never had a free standing cooker here - just wired the seperate
> oven (gas hob ) to switch panel. Surprised / shocked me that cable
> was just under plaster with a thin strip of plastic over ... no real
> protective sheathing ( metal ) I guess regs. are different now ?
>
No: regs continue to assume a degree of sense on the part of the drill
holder ;-) It continues to be OK to run cables simply buried in the plaster,
*provided* they're in a direct horiozontal or vertical line from a visible
fitting; or in a couple of well-defined narrow strips - horizontal within
6inches of the wall-ceiling corner, and 6ins either side of the corners of
the room. Other routes require the cable to be either more than 2 inches
deep from the surface of the wall, or to have extra protection against
nailing/drilling. (The idea is to protect against "foreseeable" wall
penetration - picture pins and drill-holes for normal-size wallplugs.
The belief is that heftier works will be undertaken with due care...)

Many people find that even the cheap cable detectors work quite well,
especially when there's current flowing in the cable. (Detecting wooden
studs reliably isn't as well done by cheap scanners; but metal, expecially
with dancing electrons, is easier.)

HTH, Stefek

On 30 Nov 2003 21:32:11 GMT, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:

>In uk.d-i-y, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>>
>> I've never had a free standing cooker here - just wired the seperate
>> oven (gas hob ) to switch panel. Surprised / shocked me that cable
>> was just under plaster with a thin strip of plastic over ... no real
>> protective sheathing ( metal ) I guess regs. are different now ?
>>
>No: regs continue to assume a degree of sense on the part of the drill
>holder ;-) It continues to be OK to run cables simply buried in the plaster,
>*provided* they're in a direct horiozontal or vertical line from a visible
>fitting; or in a couple of well-defined narrow strips - horizontal within
>6inches of the wall-ceiling corner, and 6ins either side of the corners of
>the room. Other routes require the cable to be either more than 2 inches
>deep from the surface of the wall, or to have extra protection against
>nailing/drilling. (The idea is to protect against "foreseeable" wall
>penetration - picture pins and drill-holes for normal-size wallplugs.
>The belief is that heftier works will be undertaken with due care...)
>
>Many people find that even the cheap cable detectors work quite well,
>especially when there's current flowing in the cable. (Detecting wooden
>studs reliably isn't as well done by cheap scanners; but metal, expecially
>with dancing electrons, is easier.)
>
>HTH, Stefek

Yep I really must invest in cable detector .... they used to be a
luxury item in the old days . Don't have much need for one but for
those odd occasions etc. Sods law that the one mounting screw hole
just had to be right in the path of the cable ....... no excuse + just
as well drills are made of plastic these days !
Been spoilt living/working in Portugal for 13 years . Built a new
house there - sank tough plastic trunking into hollow bricks & covered
with good 1/2 '' cement render,
One other thing why is the cable to my new stainless steel cooker hood
only 2 core ..... no earth ??

In uk.d-i-y, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>
> One other thing why is the cable to my new stainless steel cooker hood
> only 2 core ..... no earth ??

If this cable is what the manufacturer has fitted, then we presume the
cooker hood has been built not to need an earth - wot was previously
called "double insulated" and is now called "Class II". There should be
a little symbol somewhere on the cooker hood (probably on the rating
plate which says how many watts it eats) showing one square inside another.

But if the cable's been replaced or extended by some random bodge merchant,
you'll be wanting to undo said bodge...

HTH, Stefek