I am framing out an opening for a sliding closet door in my basement
and had a 2 questions:

1) The sliding door track kit says the height should be 1 3/4" more
than the door, which means 81 3/4". Does that take into account enough
space on the bottom of the door so it doesn't hit the floor? Or am I
suppose to add 1/2" or so on top of the 81 3/4".

2) The closet doors is adjacent to a sheetrock wall. Can the door
just close up against the sheetrock wall, or is there suppose to be
something like a 2X4 or door jamb on the side of the frame? What is
usually done on the sides?

On Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:35:09 -0700 (PDT), Mikepier
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>I am framing out an opening for a sliding closet door in my basement
>and had a 2 questions:
>
>1) The sliding door track kit says the height should be 1 3/4" more
>than the door, which means 81 3/4". Does that take into account enough
>space on the bottom of the door so it doesn't hit the floor? Or am I
>suppose to add 1/2" or so on top of the 81 3/4".
>
>2) The closet doors is adjacent to a sheetrock wall. Can the door
>just close up against the sheetrock wall, or is there suppose to be
>something like a 2X4 or door jamb on the side of the frame? What is
>usually done on the sides?

Ypou are talking a pocket door? Follow the instructions - the
clearance is provided for, and GENERALLY tou would frame out the door
like any other so the door closes against wood.
Any I've installed have been done that way

On Sep 30, 7:35*pm, Mikepier <mikep...@optonline.net> wrote:
> I am framing out an opening for a sliding closet door in my basement
> and had a *2 questions:
>
> 1) The sliding door track kit says the height should be 1 3/4" *more
> than the door, which means 81 3/4". Does that take into account enough
> space on the bottom of the door so it doesn't hit the floor? Or am I
> suppose to add 1/2" or so on top of the 81 3/4".
>
> 2) *The closet doors is adjacent to a sheetrock wall. Can the door
> just close *up against the sheetrock wall, or is there suppose to be
> something like a 2X4 or door jamb on the side of the frame? What is
> usually done on the sides?

I take it you are not talking about a pocket door. The 1.75 inches
should be for all clearances.You could lay out the parts on the floor
to figure it out. Pocket door, I do not know about.
Cut it more if you like and if its too much you can always install a
threshold. I think that looks better anyway. Ive see them with no jamb
but I like it better with the door trimmed out.


Jimmie

> Ypou are talking a pocket door? Follow the instructions - the
> clearance is provided for, and GENERALLY tou would frame out the door
> like any other so the door closes against wood.
> Any I've installed have been done that way

Its not a pocket door, just a standard sliding closet door. The width
is about 63", so I will use 2-32" hollow luan doors.

In article
<5b79eb48-588b-42d1-9542-(E-Mail Removed)>,
(E-Mail Removed) says...
>I am framing out an opening for a sliding closet door in my basement
>and had a 2 questions:
>
>
>2) The closet doors is adjacent to a sheetrock wall. Can the door
>just close up against the sheetrock wall, or is there suppose to be
>something like a 2X4 or door jamb on the side of the frame? What is
>usually done on the sides?

Normally the sliding door is installed in a wall and just runs up
against the drywall jamb at each end. There should be a 2x4 directly
behind the drywall, or even a double 2x4. If I read your post as stating
that instead, the door will run up to a side wall, then you add a 2x4 on
the side wall and cover it with drywall to make a very short wall
section, i.e., 2" wide. You could just add an exposed 1x4 jamb, I guess.

--
Dennis

(E-Mail Removed) wrote:
> On Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:35:09 -0700 (PDT), Mikepier
> <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>> I am framing out an opening for a sliding closet door in my basement
>> and had a 2 questions:
>>
>> 1) The sliding door track kit says the height should be 1 3/4" more
>> than the door, which means 81 3/4". Does that take into account enough
>> space on the bottom of the door so it doesn't hit the floor? Or am I
>> suppose to add 1/2" or so on top of the 81 3/4".
>>
>> 2) The closet doors is adjacent to a sheetrock wall. Can the door
>> just close up against the sheetrock wall, or is there suppose to be
>> something like a 2X4 or door jamb on the side of the frame? What is
>> usually done on the sides?
>
> Ypou are talking a pocket door? Follow the instructions - the
> clearance is provided for, and GENERALLY tou would frame out the door
> like any other so the door closes against wood.
> Any I've installed have been done that way
>
Hi,
Ditto. I ave two pocket doors in the house.

Ok, I think I got it now. I should just frame like a regular door with
4 9/16" wide door jambs on the sides so I can put molding around. I'll
keep it about 2 1/2" away from the wall for molding. Thanks for the
inputs.

On Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:35:09 -0700 (PDT), Mikepier
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>I am framing out an opening for a sliding closet door in my basement
>and had a 2 questions:
>
>1) The sliding door track kit says the height should be 1 3/4" more
>than the door, which means 81 3/4". Does that take into account enough
>space on the bottom of the door so it doesn't hit the floor? Or am I
>suppose to add 1/2" or so on top of the 81 3/4".

Follow the instructions. They allow for a gap under the door.
>
>2) The closet doors is adjacent to a sheetrock wall. Can the door
>just close up against the sheetrock wall, or is there suppose to be
>something like a 2X4 or door jamb on the side of the frame? What is
>usually done on the sides?

It should have a jamb, preferably out of wood. You should shim the
jamb for a perfect fit. Good luck.

Make sure your door finish is applied and cured. A pocket door is
difficult to finish while hung.

[jeckersuji]

Heavy bifold doors with a sturdy track, on the other hand, move effortlessly away from the center of the closet to give you a full picture of the contents inside. And because bifolds come in a wide array of profiles, they bring character to a plain opening. Replacing those hollow-core builder's specials with a pair of weighty solid folders isn't a huge deal; the whole assembly and installation will take you a mere Saturday afternoon. Then you'll be rewarded with a wide-angle view when it's time to pick out the day's duds.